Tuesday, August 30, 2016

What's with all the Baking?

We're not talking brownies here. I'm talking layers of powder on your face. This trend had taken the makeup world by storm! Companies are actually making specific tools for this technique it has become so popular. So why is everyone doing it?

Baking, what does it do? Baking is an overly generous amount of powder applied to key areas of the face for long, crease proof wear of makeup. Baking was really a stage makeup technique. Dancers, actors, drag queens, anyone under hot lights for hours at a time were known to 'bake' their makeup. No one wanted a melting face on stage.  Decades ago makeup wasn't what it is now. Most have heard the term 'grease paint'. Yeah, it was greasy! We're talking oil based. Not the cute, all skin friendly hydrating oils. Mineral Oil based makeup. It needed to be baked. The powder would absorb excess oil from the make up, essentially creating a 'seal'. A necessity for their work. Even today, baking really isn't used as much now thanks to the upgrade in formulations and an abundance of setting spray options (no more hair spray on the face.. or at least not as much lol).

Should you bake? Probably not.  Set your makeup? Yes. But dip your face into a vat of flour. NO. On that note, there is nothing in your kitchen cabinet that will make a good setting powder. Just say no...  Setting your makeup will get the job done with out the heavy look of the bake. What's the difference?  Many things. First, the products you're using. It's highly unlikely you're using products that contain mineral oil, as most companies have moved passed it. Should you find it in your products it usually a more refined version than that of decades ago and a good set will do you fine. There is no need to bake oil free foundations and concealers! If you're finding your under eye products creasing, check your skincare prep products. Are they right for your skin? How much are you using?? Not one product can be blamed for creasing. Its a team effort under there. They eye area is product texture phobic, and it's the #1 place people want to bake. The less product the better in this area. The less powder the better in this area. Heavy powder under the eye will show texture you didn't even know you had! Setting very delicately is best.

Understand your skin. If you're dry, a very delicate set in transfer zones (jawline, temples, places where we tend to rub & touch often) are where you should be setting. Baking would pull all the lovely moisture you're  trying to get back in. Delicately set your makeup.  Same for combination-oily skin. Set your oily areas a little more heavily than you do normal areas.  Like with your foundation coverage, with setting, think area rug, not wall to wall carpeting.

Choose your powder wisely. I happen to love talc free for setting. I find read softer on the skin (even when baked). No paranormal activity in photos (we've all seen & shared the memes) no matter what color the complexion. Be sure it is a SETTING powder. Not a Finishing powder. Finishing powders only change the finish of the makeup, as the name suggests. And never, never use baby powder or anything from your kitchen cabinet. No matter what you saw on youtube...

Many will try the baking trend. Some will hate it, some will be 'ehh', some will fall in love. To each their own. I just want to share the info.  Makeup is about options and feeling your best...

Saturday, June 4, 2016

Summer Skin

Grab the SPF, umbrella & hide!! That's my reaction to summer. I gave it up years ago. I spent my childhood summers in pools, on swing sets, at amusement parks, just doing anything & everything I could to stay outside. Did I mention I had a fantastic tan? And the tan lines to match! SPF 4 was a thing in the 80's. Baby oil was our #1 go to when out of Coppertone Oil. Now looking at my skin- WHY did I do that.

Yes, the sun is good for us. Yes, it is relaxing for some people. Yes, the deep heat of the rays feels good. But it does take a toll on your skin. It is true, it will take years for it to show up. Prepare yourself... summer is coming to haunt you. 20 years later.

Here are 3 things everyone MUST HAVE to keep their skin beautiful this season:

Must have #1 Broad Spectrum SPF30-50. Do it. Apply it early. Apply it often. Replace it yearly. Read the package of your sunscreen. It takes 15-30 minutes for most SPF to become effective. Yes, 15-30 minutes. Waiting until you're in the sun, is giving you 15-30 minutes without any protection. Those prone to burn or with a predisposition to skin cancers need that time. Don't be fooled by SPF70 & SPF100 they are not proven to be any more effective than SPF50. Broad Spectrum is your key to good proctection. Here is some excellent information from the sources:
Know your limits in the sun. Not everyone can spend the entire day in the sun! Limit your time.

Must have #2 Hydration. Good moisturizers are essential all year. More so in summer! The sun can dry out the skin. Many who spent time in the skin will tell you their skin feels tight, gets flaky & patchy. Even the most oily of skins will be prone to dehydration after a day in the sun. You will want a hydrating serum, or gel-cream that is light weight. Hyaluronic acid is fantastic at locking moisture & very light weight. Too much sun? Aloe is very soothing & cooling. Yogurt based gels & creams will lock in moisture while cooling the heat of the burn.

Must have #3 Eye wear. The eyes are so delicate! As a child, I got a sunburn directly under my eyes, after spending hours on my raft in the ocean (I may be part fish... just keep swimming). Rays coming at me from all directions. my eyes were toast. Worst burn ever! I still blame it for my premature aging eyes. Brightly colored ZINC was the hot sunscreen then. We had it on our noses & high on our cheeks but couldn't use it that close to the eye. Luckily, they've come along way (although, I'd totally rock ZINC everyday).There are some sunscreens on the market that are safe & tested for the eye area.  You can snag one of those or your best bet will always be sunglasses & large brim hats! Here's a great list of eye area sunscreens:  http://www.allure.com/skin-care/2015/best-eye-creams-treatments-with-spf#slide=1

Summer is colorful, the earth is alive, everything is in bloom! Get outside & enjoy it! Stay healthy.

Friday, January 24, 2014

The Dark Shadows Know

Your skin is very telling. It glows when your happy.  Turns a rosy pink when you get excited or are feeling shy. It can look pale & lack luster when you're under the weather. Let's them know your age. It will tell everyone what you did last night.  And the skin around your eyes is an even bigger blabber mouth!

Never wear sunglasses, always squinting? Late night on the town with your friends? Spend too much time looking at a computer screen? Water- it's in soda. That counts, right?  The delicate skin around the eye is the first to show signs of aging (or a late night). It DOES need special care. Sure you CAN put your face cream around your eyes but it is not recommended... by anyone.

The eyes are the first to show lack of hydration. This appears as fine lines or flakiness. Hydration is key with all skin types. Internal hydration & external. When looking for an eye cream, take into consideration your concern. Darkness, puffiness, fine lines, preventing or all of the above. Not all eye crams are created equal. Some only address one or two of the concerns while some address them all & wash your dishes ;)  You will notice that products for darkness & puffiness tend to go hand in hand. Lack of circulation in the area is the common culprit for these. Many will have caffeine to stimulate the micro-circulation to help drain the excess fluids in the area diminishing the puff & shadow (see, there is something to tea bags on the eyes). If you are fortunate like me & inherited your shadows, caffeine does little to nothing for this. (How can you tell if you inherited your shadows? Look in a mirror. Gently press a finger on the darkest part of the shadow. When you release, if the color does not change, they are inherited. If you notice the color disappear for even a split second it is circulatory. Cool trick, eh?)  Peptides do best by adding density to the thin delicate skin. Doing so gives it extra cushion & the darkness doesn't peek through as much. Even better peptides are key for preventing & correcting fine lines. Love a good multi-tasker!

Next, look for one that will work with your skin type. Anything to heavy can cause milia (those lovely white bumps that take months to go away).  Oilier skin will want one gel or lotion based. Lighter weight doesn't mean not as potent. Just lighter weight. If your skin is balanced/ normal, go with what feels best on your skin. If it is winter a cream may be better for you & summer you may like a gel or lotion. Dry skin will love a cream texture. It wants & needs extra moisture. Dry skin will show fine lines earlier than oily due to lack of moisture. Love thy Hydration!!

Finally, application. Be gentle. They're your eyes! One of our favorite built in accessories. We love to dress them up, cover them in sparkles, define them with beautiful colors & lots & lots of mascara. Take care of them. Use all the waterproof/ long wear/ 24 hours/ not coming off in a hurricane make up you want. Use a good remover! You should have to scrub your eyes. If you're scrubbing, get a different remover! It should be doing the work not your elbows. When applying your eye cream, use gentle pressure. The ring finger is the most gentle. TAP it in- don't rub. Tip: for puffiness, try small circular motions from outside corner to in when applying to get circulation movin'!

Only let your eyes tell people what you want them to hear...

Monday, October 1, 2012

Wear that trend!

The fall trends are AMAZING!! Full of bold rich colors that will make anyone heat up. Let's talk lips. Crimson, berry, deep plums. The new way to wear red. We all love the classic, perfect red lip. For fall it's about make it richer, more intense & sexy (if you can believe that!).  Well, this picture may help....

Hourglass Opaque Rouge Liquid Lip Stick

This is one of my favorite new product launches! Hourglass Opaque Rouge Liquid Lip Stick. These are feather light on your lips! They don't budge! You won't have to worry about it wearing off & being left with the ever so attractive ring around the mouth or bleeding into the cracks. One of the best all day lip colors. AND Icon is the perfect deep crimson for the season.

Feeling a little more berry? Bite Beauty (the resveratrol infused, good for you lip product line) has 7 new shades for fall in their High Pigment Matte Pencils. Scarlet is beautiful! Deep rich red with a hint of berry. Poppy is perfect if you want more a classic red feel.

Maybe matte isn't for you but you want the long wear that matte brings. Make Up For Ever will make anything waterproof! Aqua Rouge is 2 in 1- a fantastic opaque lip stain and high shine gloss! You can wear the lip stain alone as a matte lip or top it with the gloss it comes with for some shine! (note: only use the gloss it comes with for the longest wear. Other glosses may contain hydrating ingredients that may break down the stain).

Tips for perfect lips:
1) Scrub- you need a perfect smooth lip to wear these rich bold colors! try Bite Beauty Whipped Cherry Lip Scrub or Lush Mint Julips.
2) Hydrate- use a hydrating lip balm to add moisture to lips & keep from getting dry. try Josie Maran Argan Lip Treatment, Fresh Sugar Lip Treatment or Korres Lip Butters.
3) If using a lip stick, Prime! This will keep the lip stick in place longer & give a smoother application. try Guerlain Kiss Kiss Liplift, or Urban Decay Lip Potion.
4) Use a lip brush to get the perfect defined lip line. Go back with a liner to shape & refine.

*3) If using a Stain- blot off excess moisture on lips. This can break down stain. Start on bottom lip using flat side of applicator. Cover most of bottom lip. Gently press lips together to spread on top lip. Using tip of applicator, define lips around lines. Let stain dry for 1 minute. 
4) Apply small amount of gloss to center of lips.

5) To highlight, take matte highlight powder/ eyeshadow or brightening pen along edge of top lip. Blend gently from cupids bow to outer corner. Apply same to lower lip just at outer 1/4 of lip. This will give the mouth a fuller look.

If opaque isn't for you, you can still wear this trend! How? Sheer! These tones & colors are available in sheer colors.
Here are some fantastic sheers to try:
Lipstick Queen- Wine Saint Sheer Lipstick. Beautiful burgundy will give your lips just a kiss of color.
Josie Maran Lip Stain in Waltz. Amazing Berry! You can be very light or more bold.
YSL Volupte Sheer Candy in 05 Mouthwatering Berry. Sheer color & wonderfully hydrating!
Clinique Almost Lipstick in Lovely Honey. Soft, creamy texture & a hint of color.

What to pair with this:
Soft neutral eyes. Keep the color palette for the eyes simple, 2 colors on lid. Define the upper lash line with black or a dark brown liner to enhance the lashes. Soft smoky liner on bottom (if any)-  lighter than on upper lid. Try using a medium brown shadow for this. Go for 2 coats of your favorite mascara. Don't for get to shape your brows. Use a soft blush on the cheeks to add a hint color & definition.

This complete look is simple, classic, refined, feminine, sexy & effortless.

Have fun this fall! Nature changes it's color this time of year, why not you?

Wednesday, May 23, 2012

Oil. Not just for cooking... or your car.

Oils are everywhere. On your skin, in your kitchen cabinet, in your car. Oils have started to take over the cosmetic counters once again. There are oils for your face, to remove your makeup, for your hair, for your nails, for your body, for your face & body. Why do some still fear the OIL?
Ask any pimple faced teen/ tween or thirty-something and they will tell you why oil is evil- "It's ruining my life!!" As the forty-something that until recently had oily skin and looks like she is in her 30's & she will tell you oil is the best thing to happen to her skin! It's true- oily skin does age slower due to the face that it retains more moisture & it is thicker. Oily skin is NOT always tougher & more resilient to treatment.
When should you fear oil? Know your skin. If you are already oily, putting any cosmetic preparation on the skin with oil can cause a reaction. Mineral oil is known to cause reaction in skin and can cause blemishes.The mineral oil molecule is bigger than that of natural skin oil & creates a barrier on the skin. That being said there are different types refining that happens to mineral oil, some thicker will be than others and normal-dry skin types usually do not react to this.
FACT: For a product to be considered OIL FREE it only has to be free of mineral oil. The product may contain hydrating, essential or fragrance oils.

Let's talk hydrating oils. Grapeseed, Argan, Olive, Sweet Almond, Sunflower, Safflower, Evening Primrose Oil. These oils you should not fear- you should learn to love!! They are natural, full of vitamins, anti-oxidants, omegas and nourish your skin & hair. They are non-comedogenic.  The structure of the oils are similar to that of the oil your skin produces. They can be absorbed. You can use them from head to toe!! You can use them to hydrate, treat or for massage. If you give your skin the hydration it needs (and maybe a little oil), it will start to balance itself out & produce less oil!

Now- cleansing oils. Sometimes called makeup removing oil. These are fantastic! Waterproof/ 24hr wear/ stains look out- you will not survive a cleansing oil. Did you know oil likes oil?? Think about it. Oil & water do not mix. But what happens when you put 2 oils together? They mix. Using a cleansing oil will not make you oilier.It will remove the excess oil. You will be lacking the 'squeaky clean', over stripped tightness but your skin will be clean. Try it. You may like it.

Some of my favorite oils:
           Josie Maran 100% Argan Oil- Argan anything from that woman is amazing
          Alterna Bamboo Kendi Oil Treatment for Hair- super hydrating, repairing- obsessed!
          Boscia Makeup Breakup Cleansing Oil
          L'Occitane Amande Shower Oil & Body Oil- leaves you super soft & smelling like dessert
          Aura Cacia Lavender Essential Oil- calming & heals blemishes
          *essential oils to keep on hand- tea tree (heals blemishes, bug bites & can kill mold! peppermint for a pick me up, tired feet & blemishes) These can be added to your favorite oil or unscented lotion for daily use or massage!

My Olive Oil Body Scrub
equal parts:
   100% pure olive oil
    kosher salt
Massage all over dry skin, beginning with feet. Work upward using circular motions toward torso. Same for arms. When massaging always work toward heart. Shower off excess scrub & oil. Your skin will be smooth, soft & glowing! Try adding Lavender essential oil for an evening treatment or a citrus oil or peppermint for morning.

Monday, July 4, 2011

You are only as old as you look.

Harsh, I know. But it's true. When you look at someone you see their face. Without consciously doing so you decide their age. 30's, 40's, 50's, mid, late. Based on that decision you adjust yourself and your personality to 'fit' someone of that demographic. Ever do this and find you are a decade off?? Yeah, happened to me. 
I was assisting, what I thought was a more than middle- aged (and by that I mean 60 years old) woman with some products. Near the end of our conversation she tells me she is 46. WHAT? How can someone with such deep expression lines, dry/ textured skin, lacking volume in the skin and frown lines only be 46??! Those are markers of someone 15-20 years her senior.... She didn't take care of her skin.
Like many she has an out-of-sight/ out-of-mind attitude. Just cover it- it'll be fine. You can't just cover something up & expect perfection. Don't hide imperfections get rid of them. 
Sign of aging #1- Pigmentation: Everyone should know by now the leading cause of pigmentation is the Sun. You can't wear enough SPF. EVERYDAY- UV is everywhere. It reflects off everything you see.  If it's daytime you need SPF. Now, pigmentation can also be caused by hormonal changes (like during pregnancy) or taking hormones. Another cause is post trauma- post acne, injury or allergic reaction. With any pigmentation the concern is getting rid of it and preventing more from appearing. 
There are many product on the market that can brighten & lighten the skin. You need to decide whats best for you- botanical or pharmaceutical. Talk to your DR.
Sign of aging #2- Lines & Wrinkles:  You smile. Muscles contract, skin tissue moves, creases form. It's what our faces do. When you stop smiling & the lines remain, it's time to boost your regimen. Did you know that sometime in your 20's your skin starts to slow down the production of collagen & elastin?! YIKES! The production of it begins to slow and by our mid 30's the amount we're loosing is more than we're making. How can we fight this? Good SKINCARE. Using ingredients such as a mild retinol, vitamin c, resveratrol, anti-oxidants; all these 'collagen stimulating' ingredients to protect what you have & keep the collagen factory working! Again, SPF! Let's go back to the 1980's here for a minute- all that spandex! After so many times in the dryer the spandex stopped going back in to shape & stopped stretching. Similar effect with your skin & the sun. It causes dryness, over works the cells (a tan is the body trying to protect itself from uv rays) and can damage collagen & elastin. Over time your skin looses its fullness, bounce & begins to sag.
Sign of again #3- Dullness/ uneven texture: Dullness & uneven texture are usually caused by the same thing. Dead skin. Your skin stops sheding as fast as it used to and skin can hang on longer than we'd like it to. Get back that glow with EXFOLIATION. Time to choose your weapon: physical, enzymatic, glycolic, oh my! You can even find tasty blends of all of the above as well- yummy!
Let your skin determine what type you use. Uber sensitive, sensitive- dry skins usually enjoy enzymes. They tend to be more gentle and there is no harsh rubbing involved. Dry- normal skins can go either way. A physical scrub with beads (not shell) feel great on the skin & give a little bit more power to an enzyme or AHA. A strong aha or glycolic is fantastic for getting through very dry skin. Combination- oily skins tend to enjoy scrubs. A nice beady scrub with some AHAs & BHAs are great for breaking down oils & getting a nice deep clean.
You can be smooth as a baby's bottom!
Signs of aging #4 Dark circles: Some of us are lucky enough to be born with these (thanks, mom). Others have started to notice shadows later. Lack of sleep, stress, certain medications, spending too much time on the computer, allergies or dehydration can cause dark circles. Somethings you can control- allergies, dehydration, sleep and stress (to a point). Now it's time to treat! You need to hydrate not only inside but outside. Finding an eye cream that works for you (no, you don't want to use the one you use for your face). Coffee berry/ coffee/ caffeine are all good things when it comes to darkness & puffiness. It stimulates the circulation and gets everything flowing out of the area. Hydrating is also key to youthful looking eyes.  There are many great eye creams out there that offer solution for darkness & will give great results for fine lines as well. And YES, there are eye creams with SPF.

Remember: hands & neck show signs of aging really early! Don't neglect them.  You don't want a 30 somethings face with a 50 somethings hands and neck.

Always know any effort you put in to taking care of your skin- no matter how little it may be- it's worth it.

Friday, June 3, 2011

Makeup 'rules'?

Every day I get asked 'what should I wear?' ' What's the rule on shimmer? I 'm over 40'.' Should I have a dewy look?' 'I'm a autumn/winter/summer. What colors am I suppose to be using?'... I don't like rules. I don't follow most rules. Sticking to all the makeup "Rules" you see in every magazine and hear on TV will make you crazy & you will get bored- and fast.
Last I checked, makeup was about having fun! Creating your own look. It's taking your natural beauty & turning it up an notch. Makeup is about making you feel beautiful. Ditching the rules will set you free...
Rules you should FOLLOW:
1. Have a proper skin care routine that includes SPF. The better your skin is the less you'll need to cover, right? And always always always remember what goes on must come off. That means every night.
2. Feed & Hydrate. Inside & out. Good food in- good skin out.
3.Throw out mascara after 3 months of regular use. They are just gross & lacking in performance by that time.
4. Prime your eyes! Lashes to brow & at lower lash line. You're putting in the time & the effort to put shadows & liners on, keep them there! 
5. Have good Tools- invest in & take care of your tools.
6. Find a signature, no fail look. You never know when you'll get a last minute phone call for a fantastic night out. You need something quick & simple you know you can rock. 

Rules you should BREAK:
1.Never wear shimmer after 40. YES YOU CAN. You just have to be smart & strategic with the placement of it. Looking like a disco ball is not what your after, but some soft highlighting around the eyes, temples, brows and cheeks can give a fresh, glowing more youthful appearance to the skin.
2. Any color other than brown is not suitable for a professional office. NO. There are so many colors out there! You don't have to be wearing neon to wear color. You can find a color that suits your complexion that is soft, subtle and still COLOR. Add one color in with your everyday beige. Mix it up.
3.Always use a foundation primer. Maybe. This really depends on your skin routine. Yes primer gives foundations that silky velvety appearance & some will even make it sweat proof. If you have little to no skin concerns and if your skin if properly hydrated, you shouldn't need a primer. Many products on the market are multi-taskers- moisture + SPF + prime. Gotta love that! 
4. You can't wear powder if you have dry skin. Sure you can. Again that goes back to finding the perfect moisturizer. If the skin has enough moisture you can certainly wear a powder. It is true that most with dry skin prefer liquids. A luminizing powder would be perfect for a dry skin type.
5. You have to use everything from the same brand. This is applied mostly to skincare. While most lines within a brand are designed to work together for optimal results it is OKAY to pick & choose what products you like/ need
6. Trends are only for tweens & twenty-somethings. The trends, as seen in fashion, are usually bold, make a statement & really appeal to that age group. You can still be on trend at any age by making some adjustments. Take some of the focus of the trend, whether it be the lip color or the eye shadow & make it your own. Find hues from the trend that work with your features. The look can be far more subtle & still on trend. 
 A few things to keep in mind: Just because the person on TV, your mother, co-worker or the lady next to you on the train LOVE it, it may not be for you. Sure there is a reason it is such a sensation but not everything is for everyone. Make your own decision- is it what your looking for? Does it do what your need it to? Is it the look you really want? Are you excited to use it? What fits in your routine?
Never get discouraged when trying to find makeup. There's quite a selection. Always consider your skin type, tone, texture, texture of the product, what you want it to do for you & what the look you want really is.
It's not about anyone but you.